Acne is a skin disease. It’s not a “temporary skin condition”. Although many of us suffer from acne tos ome extent during puberty, in some cases, acne can occur at an adult age. Genetic predisposition plays an important role.

According tot he American dermatologist Nicolas Perricone, 7 stages of acne can be distinguished.

  • “Retention hyperkeratosis”. In a healthy skin, dead skin cells on the inside of our pores, are shed in a natural and continuous manner. In this first stage of acne, this no longer happens in a normal way. Dead skin cells and sebum (the natural grease our skin produces) cling together. As a result of this, pores get clogged and can eventually enlarge.
  • Bacteria start to grow inside the pore and its follicle (this is the hairshaft).Acne bacteria grow “anaerobically”, meaning they like places without oxygen.Skin condition deteriorates and the first lesions start to appear. Acne is a fact.
  • Comedones & blackheads start to appear.
  • Red, inflamed spots, the acne spreads.
  • Worsening of the condition: more spots, more redness.
  • Formation of cysts: this stage + 7 is called “acne conglobata” and is the worst case scenario. Large areas of heavily inflamed, large pimples.

In the first stages of acne (stage 1 to 4), good skincare can do a lot. It’s very important for young people to start taking care of their skin in an early stage. For stages 6 & 7, dermatologists’ treatments are a necessity.Treatment with antibiotics or Roaccutane/Accutane might be the only solution left.

Antibiotics kill the acne bacteria, but have the disandvantage of creating resistant strains. Roaccutane (Accutane in the US) is a very potent form of Vitamin A (iso-tretinoin) and clears up severe acne in a couple of months.

I personally suffered from acne from my 14th until my 23th. It was severe, and I tried everything I could to get rid of it. It took me years to go to a dermatologist. I wish I had done so before. Roaccutane was the ultimate solution for me. It helped, thank god it did. But it left my skin dry and parchy. Years of diligent skin care gave me back a “normal” skin. Nowadays, however,  I still suffer from acne scars and hyperpigmentation due to the many inflamations I had.

The worst thing you can do is “self-medicate”! Please don’t try to “dry out” your acne with desinfection alcohol, like I did.Don’t use soap or drying face washes either. It will only make matters worse, believe me.

What you can do, in order to improve your skin condition :

  • Use a mild, non-foaming cleanser twice a day. “Non-foaming” is important, because your sebeceous glands are already “overexcited”. Calm them down by using a very mild cleanser. Cleansing oil or milk is perfect. The body Shop makes a great cleansing oil with Chamomile and Clarins has a cleansing milk designed for oilier skin types. Cerave Cleansing Cream is rather a gel, so if you prefer a gel, this one will suit you. Clinique Facial Soap Extra Mild isn’t a soap, but a gelly milk and is great too.
  • If you use a toner (which I recommend), make it a hydrating one. Toners with glycerin, propanediol and hyaluronic acid are all very good. Not too much alcohol please ! Clarins, Exuviance, Lancôme and many Koreans (Leegeehaam, Klairs, Missha) are fab.
  • Use a AHA/BHA product. Fruit acids are GREAT for acne & oily skin. BHA’s can even penetrate inside your pores to help “clean them out”. Salicylic acid is great, glycolic, citric & lactic will be very helpful too. Use your product in the form of a gel, lotion or (very light) cream. Specialists in this section are brands like Paula’s Choice and Exuviance. Neostrata is available by dermatologists’ prescription (NL/BE).
  • Eventually use a product with Retinol (Vitamin A).Retinol is known to “improve” the pore lining, thus making your skin more healthy. It will also have a preventative effect on scarring and hyperpigmentation. Neostrata, Indeed Labs, Nazan Tastan and Mad Hippie all make excellent Retinol products.
  • Use a spot-on treatment on inflamed areas.On the pimples itself, that is. Do NOT use them all over your face !
  • Make-up is ok. Don’t let yourself be influenced by people saying it will “suffocate” your skin !Modern make-up does NOT do that. The only thing I would advice you is not to choose a stick or compact cream foundation as these are often based on heavier oils and waxes.

And don’t be as stupid as I was trying to “pop” spots. You can only do that when there is a BIG WHTE head on top of the pimple. And press gently, with CLEAN fingers. Don’t continue to press if it doesn’t “pop”. Just wait another day. (I know this isn’t easy, I’ve been there).

Last but not least : seek professional advise if your acne condition gets worse.


Antioxidant Night Detox Cream.

For all skintypes.

Helps skin detox – purifying and refining skin’s surface and visibly reducing pores.

Quite a bit, isn’t it ?

Ingredients :Warer (Aqua), Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Hydrogenated Polydecene, Propanediol, Squalane, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Stearate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Gentiana Lutea (Gentian) Root Extract, Hydrolised Rice Bran Extract, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Psidium Guayava (Guave) Fruit Extract, Hydrolised Rice Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract/Extrait d’Orge, Polygonium Cuspidatum Root Extract, Thermus Thermophyllus Ferment, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Limonum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylbisaminomethyl Guaiacol Manganese Chloride, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin Glycerin Crosspolymer, Artemia Extract, Cholesterol, Algae Extract, Linoleic Acid, Dimethiconol, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Tridecyl Trimelitate, Lauryl Alcohol, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Sucrose, Ergothioneine, Acrylates/C-10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Palmitic Acid, Sodium PCA, Stearic Acid, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylamide/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Polyquartenium 51, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Benzoate, Fumaric Acid, Cyclodextrin, Fragrance (Parfum), Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylproprional, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Salicylate, Blue 1 (CI42090), Yellow 5 (CI 19140).

I’ve been a HUGE fan of Estee Lauder from the very first day I became interrested in skincare. This was about 2 centuries ago and I had a very bad acne in those days. Dermatologists’ treatments didn’t really make things all that better and I finally decided to give high-end skincare a try.


Estee Lauder it became and it’s nowadays still one of my loves….

Nightwear Plus is a lovely allrounder.Every skintype will benefit from its (multiple) skin-improving ingredients. I’m not sure if you’ll see the “pore reducing” effect all that quickly, but what you WILL see is a healthier, more glowing skin.

When will you start seeing the first results? Without becoming too technical now ; skins’ epidermis renews itself every 28 days, in average. That is the “ideal” cell turnover, anyway. When we get older, it takes a bit longer. So logically, you will start seeing the BENEFITS of a product after about one full cell-cycle, being 28 days.

The many anti-oxidants in this product work by keeping away harmfull elements away from your skin cells. In this way, your skin can REGENERATE itself better and produce more SKIN-FIRMING collagen and elastin. So this product is helping your skin to perform better. Isn’t that nice?


Texture :lovely (I know that’s not a type of texture, but it simply is…..) J

Skintypes :like Lauder says on the packaging : all, and I agree.

Use :at night, over a serum, if you’re using one. Lauder advises their Night Repair serum (see review in a previous post), but you can use any serum you want.

Note: this product comes with a “day” and “day eye” version too. I will review them both for you soon.


Triple Action Hyaluronic Acid

Ingredients :Water (Aqua), C15-19 Alkane, Isododecane, Glycerin, Isononyl Isonanoate, Octyldodecanol, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium PCA, Polysorbate 20, Polyisobutene, Phenyl Trimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Allantoin, Panthenol, Caesalpina Spinosa Fruit Extract, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Caprylyl Glycol, Caryocar Brasiliensis Fruit Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Isodecyl Salicylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Koppaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sorbitol, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Citric Acid.

I wrote a review about Hydraluron serum a while ago. The Intense Moisture Lotion was developped to complement the serum and is designed for everyone looking for an effective high-quality moisturizer.

The texture of the product is creamy, but certainly not heavy. I guess any normal-to-dry skin wil love this product. On combination skin (like mine), it tends to be a bit too shiny, so it will be for winter rather than summer.


Contains a three-fold type of hyaluronic acid that will MOISTURE & PLUMP your skin, plus a three-fold mineral complex consisting of copper, zinc and manganese.

The product certainly does what it promises and delivers ongoing moistirization both day and night, if you want so. It is certainly a good product for those of you looking for an effective, uncomplicated moisturizer in a very handy, ideal-to-travel-with, airtight packaging.

Skintype :rather on the dry side

Texture :creamy, not heavy

Pro’s :fine moisturizer, handy packaging if you travel

Contra’s :none, but it’s not necessarily better than other (good quality) moisturizers on the market

I got my product from The Sisters in Amsterdam, who gracefully offered it to me for review.


“Infused with Clary Sage and Probiotic Technology, this formula is scientifically proven to provide intense hydration while helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”.

Ingredients: Aqua(Water,Eau), Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tapioca Starch, Parfum (Fragrance)*, Propanediol, Salvia Scarlea (Clary) Extract, Lactobacillus, Astrocaryum Tumuca Seed Butter, Garcia Indica Seed Butter, Trichilia Emerica Seed Butter, Cera Alba (Beeswax, Cire d’Abeille), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Candelila/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Jojoba Esters, Hydrolised Jojoba Esters, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan), Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Maltodextrin, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Sucrose, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soya (Soybean Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Amyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Hydroxycitonellol, Linalool.

The key ingredient in Burt’s Bees products is, of course,  BEESWAX. Beeswax is a rich, very nourishing lipid (oil), rich in many natural proteins and vitamins.

Clary Sage extract is known for its astringent (PORE-REFINING) and anti-oxidant (CELL PROTECTING) and slightly antiseptic properties.

Lactobacillus is a so-called PRO-BIOTIC that is used in cosmetics for improved skin balance.


The Intense Hydration Night Cream is a plant-based product. It contains a wide range of different plant extracts and oils, that all have their specific properties.

I find it rather rich in texture, like many “classic” night creams. This makes the product ideal for anyone looking for a nourishing/natural lead product. Dryer skintypes will love it, but if you’re more oily/combination, like I am,  I believe this hydrating cream will be too rich for you. It’s claim “intense hydration”, is, in this sense, slightly misleading, as one would expect a lighter, rather moisturizing product. (well I would, anyway).

The product smells beautifully,thanks to some very nice essential oils and although fragrance has nothing to do with skincare, it IS LOVELY! This also means that if you’re allergic to fragrance, this product is probably not for you.

I keep my jar ready for after a few nights of Retinol/AHA products, or when my skin is a bit “stressed”. In this sense, it’s a very good product to “restore” everything back to normal.

As with all products of the Burt’s Bees line, the Intense Hydration Night Cream is a budget-friendly productthat offers you many natural-sourced ingredients for a reasonable price. Price-quality, in this sense, is very good.

Texture: rich, nourishing. Makes skin feel protected. Lovely smell (yes, that’s not skincare, I know).

Skin types: normal to dry & very dry.

Strong points: price/quality, natural ingredients. Restores dry/sensitized skin.

Weak points: far too rich if you have a combination to oily skin ; the word “hydration” doesn’t mean it’s light. Certainly not for all skin types!

Burt’s Bees product scan be obtained through webshops and various health stores (Netherlands). I got mine through the webstore of Holland & Barrett.


Hi you guys, here’s some “in between” news for you. Just to make sure certain things that I plan to do on my blog are known.

I (we, being me and my website constructor :-)) are planning to do a series on Korean skincare. I discovered Korean skincare about 4 years ago and must admit I was pretty sceptical at the beginning. In the meantime, my scepsis has changed into enthusiasm and I actually love using & testing Korean skincare brands.

The Korean approach is quite different from our current way of treating our skin. They have more steps (I hear you thinking : “ oh sh..”), but these steps go SO FAST one after another that this shouldn’t be a problem to anyone.

Their products are often much LIGHTER and more HYDRATING in every step of their system, plus they ALWAYS DOUBLE CLEANSE which I find absolutely great !

Plus :what you get for your bucks is A LOT !

In order to give you some impression of what the Korean skincare philosophy looks like, I will be publishing some “borrowed” articles from My Little Wonderland, which is a Korean Webshop held by the very sympathic and enthusiast Yin.

As the articles on their beauty blog are soooo damn good, I couldn’t resist asking them if I could publish them form y readers (being YOU) too…. And they gracefully gave me permission to do so.



By Health Cosmeticals

Version for normal skin types

Ingredients :Aqua (Water), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Sorbitol, Propanediol, Sucrose Stearate, Glycerin, Fragrance (Parfum), Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolised Corn Starch, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Hydrolised Milk Protein, Acrylates C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Sulfite, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pectin, Levan, Decyl Glucoside, Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Baicalin, Phenetyl Alcohol, Zizyphus Jujuba Seed Extract, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil.

Stem Cell products have been around for some years now. When the hype just started, I really didn’t like those products. Just because of the ridiculous claims, going from “activating our own stem cells” to “repairing our DNA”. Bullshit, pardon me.

In the mean time, things have changed. Both the claims AND my personal opinion on this type of ingredients.Stem cells, in plants, are cell found at the extremities of twigs, leaves etc. They are able to divide themselves into whatever the plant may need : leaves, twigs, flowers …..

Of course, plant cells have NOTHING IN COMMON with HUMAN stem cells. It’s not because you’re using an apple stem cell cream, that your skin cells will automatically get a new lease of life ! Forget it! And, by the way, be happy not to grow apples hanging from your ears 🙂.


Fact is, that plant stem cells are indeed a rich source of VITAMINS, ANTIOXIDANTS, PLANT HORMONES and PROTEINS,all of them with the potential to be beneficial to our skin. And this is exactly the reason for you to use them. Like you use a vitamin C enriched cream to protect your skin cells from free radical damage.

Products with plant stem cells are a new way of getting your skin cells to perform better. As simple as that. They are an alternative to other antioxidant- or peptide-based products, without, however, being superior to those and without replacing these either.

Repacell Ultimate Antiage Concentrate is a serum version of the REPACELL line, that comes in many different varieties, all aimed at one specific skin type/skin condition. The serum is available for : dry skin, combination skin, normal skin, mature skin and sensitive skin.I have the version for normal and the one for sensitive skin. I use them alternatively in my skin care routine at the moment.

As there is so much information to give you about this lovely line of products, a YOUTUBE video will follow.

Texture: runny, creamy fluid.

Skin type: depending on the version you have.

Positive points: active ingredient is special. Lovely, lush product. Fragrance is divine. Very hydrating.

Negative points: does not replace your usual must-haves like Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid or AHA’s. Higher price tag. Not as much research available as for other active ingredients.


Clay Mask, Pink Clay, Aloe Vera

Key words :French, Bio-Cosmetics, NATURAL, sensitive skins.

Ingredients :Kaolin, Aqua, Mentha Piperita Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Potassium Jojobate, Jojoba Alcohol, Propanediol, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum.

The Key Ingredient in this product is Kaolin (at least, the “pink” clay is listed as such), infused with nourishing/protecting plant oils and Aloe. Kaolin is a type of – usually white – clay, that has ABSORBING and SOOTHING  properties.So are the plant oils and the Aloe in this product.


Cattier makes a series of different – and very famous –  clay masks, all intended for a specific skin type or skin condition. This “pink clay” version is meant for SENSITIVE skin and can, in fact, be used by ANY SKIN TYPE. It’s soft and gentle and will leave skin feeling pure and smooth. The one RULE to observe when using a clay mask is, however : DO NOT LET IT DRY on your skin (completely). That’s why I like to advise clay masks as QUICK FIX PURIFYING & BRIGHTENING products.

You can use it after coming home from work, or before going to a party,  but it’s great for mornings also.Just apply and let it sit while you’re having a cup of coffee. You can even massage it for 2-3 minutes (even AROUND EYES) and you’ll look as fresh as you possibly could. Take it off with water and do what you always do. If you read my blog, you’ll know I recommend toning & a serum plus a (light) moisturizer.

Who can use this? Anyone looking for an “extra” cleansing step in her/his routine.

How ?Clean your skin, apply a generous layer, wait or massage for a few minutes, splash of or use a washcloth. Done !

Skintype: all, especially sensitive as it was formulated for these skin types.

Strong points: natural, gentle, uncomplicated; CATTIER is THE specialist in clay masks.

Weak points: for me personally, the smell is a bit too “earthy”. But that’s what you get after using too many (fragranced) French brands J

Available from: webshops like Natuurlijk Zuiver and many others. I got mine at DI Drugstore in Genk.



This one is by far my personal favorite !A treatment with FRUIT ACIDS is SIMPLE, EFFECTIVE and visibly IMPROVES skin in only one session. This doens’t mean you’ll need only one, but it’s nice to see some effect afther the first session.

Fruit acid peels work by exfoliating the dead, dull skin cells on your skin’s surface. Salon fruit acid peels will be more intense than the fruit acid products you might be using at home. The treament isn’t really a “wellness” experience, as you may experience some itching & burning during the treament. But the results are suerly worth it !

In general, your aesthetician will advice you a course of 4 to 10 sessions. Four being for a good skin condition, ten being for those of you with specific problems like acne or hyperpigmentation.

Skin can be a bit red during and immediately after the treatment and you might experience some flakiness (dead cells shedding) in the days following the session.

Prices are generally moderate and every skin type, except ultra-sensitive will benefit from these treatments.

Exuviance makes some damn good peels you should absolutely look out for. 


This one has been around for quite a few years now, but still can be a good option if you have specific skin concerns like hyperpigmented areas and (light) sagging of the skin or (fine) wrinkles. Don’t expect miracles, but a number of sessions can give you really visible results.


Collagen stimulation by light isn’t a new one either, but it has proven to be effective for skins that need (moderate) anti-ageing. Can also be combined (ideally) with the AHA Peels mentionned above. Red LED Light will stimulate the fibroblasts that produce COLLAGEN & ELASTIN in your skin, meaning your skin will be TONED and more FIRM  afther a number (generally 10) of sessions.

Blue LED Light is a great option in case you suffer from ACNE, as blue light emitted by LED Diodes kills the acne bacteria. Can ideally be combined with some peels also. Like with red LED light, expect a number of sessions to be required to get best results.


Listen, guys, or rather : girls. Oxygen sounds great, but is it really so good for skin ? I wonder, but if you have to believe the marketing claims, oxygen treatments are a real miracle. However : oxygen can be quite damaging to your skin cells, as it generates free radicals…. You know, those evil little bastards we are trying to combat with our anti-oxidant loaded serums and creams. So where’s the logic ? Put a cream to combat negative “oxygen” reactions and put extra oxygen into the skin at the same time ???!!! Stop the nonsense please and take a good deep breath when you’re on the beach or in the woods (please do not in the centre of town), so you can get some good extra oxygen IN A NATURAL MANNER. 


Fresh cells used  to be very popular during the ’70 & ’80 of the last century, but then lost their popularity after the introduction of diseases like BSE (Mad Cow Disease) and others. Of course, fresh cells have to be harvested from somewhere and this generally is from animals like bovines or sheap.

The results, however, of FRESH CELLScan be quite spectacularand I have many (women) friends who absolutely swear by them. The idea of fresh cells is that the natural defense and repair mechanisms in our skin will be stimulated by the presence of certain proteins, thus having a REJUVENATING EFFECT on your skin.

If you decide to give this one a try, find yourself a KLAPP* beauty salon/spa, as they have a very famous treament with frozen cells.

  • * as KLAPP Cosmetics is a brand I work with on a professional basis, there is NO affiliated link whatsoever.


Microdermabrasion uses a technique that “polishes” your skin with fine (aluminium/diamond) cristals in order to peel away dead skin cells. It is being recommended for scars (acne), wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Personally, I don’t find this technique to be as effective as an AHA Peel, and therefore, wouldn’t recommend you to spend a lot of money on this. Some beauticians do a light microdermabrasion during another treatment (to prepare for a peel, for example), and this is fine for me. Just don’t expect it to be as effective as a course of Fruit Acid Peels.


The latest HYPE !But don’t worry, there is nothing bloody about this “invention”. A scalpel treatment consists of “scraping” away dead skin cells of the skin with a special type of scalpel. The result ? Well, where did we hear a similar thing before ? YES, indeed microdermabrasion works exactly the same way, but uses polishing cristal instead of a “scalpel”. Skip this one, if you ask me ……


Antioxidant serum – Visible urban damage repair – smooth . even . brighten

Ingredients : Aqua, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Solfonic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Faex Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Benzoate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Carrageenan, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Dextrin, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Linalool, Geraniol, Sodium Citrate, Citral, Sodium Phosphate, Maris Sal, Parfum.

Until a few years ago, I used to assume – as many people still do – that French brands have nothing much to offer but luxury, heavily perfumed skin care products. Products that would never lead to any improvement in our skin. How wrong I was ….

With Skin Oxygen serum, Biotherm has taken a turn towards skin improving, seriously active skin care. It’s litterally packed with SKIN BENEFICIAL, ANTI-AGEING ingredients.


Sodium Hyaluronate: is all over my blog. Best ingredient ever. Moistens skin, improves texture.

Tocopherol: anti-oxidant, so a cell protector.

Ascorbyl Glucoside: Vitamin C in a stable form ; meaning it will be delivered to your skin over hours, is a real COLLAGEN BOOSTER (FIRMNESS) and works against HYPERPIGMENTATION.

Vitroscilla Ferment: used in anti-ageing products as a typ of “probiotic” for skin and, according to some, is very beneficial to our COLLAGEN PRODUCTION (youthfullness).

Glycine Soja Oil: rich in Omega Fatty Acids, helps skin repair.

Salicyloyl Sphingosine: a combination of two actives that SIGNIFICANTLY helps REDUCE WRINKLES (4 week study on eye contour wrinkles).

Chlorella & Spirulina: well-known algae, help resplenish skin, rich in vitamins and minerals.

So, what do you think of this list ? Impressive, isn’t it . Bravo for Bioterm, I would say.

Who is this serum for ?Everybody looking for an easy-to-use, smoothing anti-ageing serum. Improves SKIN TEXTURE (pore size), BRIGHTNESS (pigmentation) and will help REDUCE WRINKLES.

Texture :smooth & silky.

Skin Type: all, around eyes also.

Pro’s :light, silky texture.

Contra’s: although the beneficial ingredients are all listed in the second half of the ingredients list (meaning their concentration isn’t actually that high) , their number is impressive and their synergy will certainly bring good results.

Biotherm Products are available at most perfumeries and department stores.


There are few things I get more questions about than toners. People – that is : consumers as well as beauticians – ask me a lot about the usefulness of toners. Do we really need them ? Or can we just pas by them ?

What should toners do ? Well, actually, let’s start with WHAT TONERS ARE NOT :

  • They are NOT meant to remove last traces of make-up : if there are traces, you should either change your cleanser or the way you cleanse your skin. Read my blog posts about this, if you’re interrested. (Cleansing Part 1 & Cleansing Part 2).
  • They are NOT meant to “rebalance” skin’s pH value. Even if they might mildly correct pH values after cleansing, if you need to “rebalance”, it would mean you used a very agressive type of – soapy – cleanser. I assume you don’t …..
  • They are NOT means to “freshen” your skin: cold water out of your tap will do this. A lot cheaper too !
  • They do NOT close your pores; pores cannot be “opened” or “closed” like some window blinds…..

However, toners play an important role as YOUR FIRST STEP in your actual skin-caring routine, as you will not take them of your skin. A good toner, for that reason :

  • Supplies your skin with moisture.
  • Has skin soothing ingredients that help skin building up its acid mantle.
  • Could contain some bonus ACTIVE ingredients like vitamins, anti-oxidants, minerals etc.

The first point being the most important one. Toners should be your FIRST STEP OF MOISTURE.Korean brands are strong at “layering” products and this is just what I mean. By using a good, hydrating toner, your skin will receive a first layer of moisture that will help other precious (moisturizing) ingredients penetrate your skin. A well hydrated skin looks younger and softer. Plus, good hydration can help your skin build up more (better) collagen and elastin, which will help REDUCE WRINKLES and preventing SKIN SAGGING.

So, who was talking about skipping a toner ?


Remember, however, that not all toners are equal. I will be discussing a few nice ones in the coming months. Old-fashioned, alcohol-loaden toners are certainly “out”. Moisturizing, softening toners are actually “in”. This doens’t mean you need to spend a lot of money on a toner.It will mostly depend on your budget and personal preference. There are good toners to be found in all price categories.

 To be continued ……