MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION “THE FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE”

Intensive Moist

“Highly concentrated essential essence fort he first step of skin care, containing Purple Barley and Fermented Gemmule Yeast Extract, to recover skin balance and basic ability of skin by raising skin moisture from deep inside of skin “.

So far for Missha’s own comments on their product. The packaging also mentionnes a “clinical test” with a 100% consumers’ satisfaction (!).

Missha’s Time Revolution Essence is mainly a cocktail of 2 types of ferment filtrates and niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3. Plus some plant extracts.

Ferment filtrates have been used in K Beauty products for decades (“K” for Korean) and are becoming more and more popular in both Europe and USA now. The reason for this is, that more and more brands are focussing on SKIN BARRIER and SKIN HEALTH and keeping a healthy “microflora”.

Probiotics for skin, in fact, not just for your guts. With the ever raising popularity of products like Yakult and special yoghurts, it’s kind of logic that cosmetics have found their way here too.

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Anyway, more and more skin specialists and dermatologist agree that a healthy skin balance is indeed important for overall skin condition, so it is not at all a bad idea to apply ferments to our skin.

Niacinamide is added for extra power and helps improving cell communication (the way cells interact) and is also known for its skin clearing and pigment controlling properties.

The product itself is VERY NICE and highly MOISTURIZING without being sticky ! Anyone can add it to any skin care routine and it could even replace a toner if you are of the lazy kind J.

I’ve been using it off and on in several routines, combined with both Retinol, mild acids (like PHA or Bionics in Neostrata/Exuviance products) and I also mix it with some of my beloved French skincare brands like Biotherm, Clarins and Sisley. Not “mix” it in, by the way, I mean to say I combine i tinto my routine. Cleansing, toning, ESSENCE, serum, cream.

Texture : light, watery

Fragrance : unscented to my nose

Skin types : all

Who should use this : anyone who wants an improved hydration/skin barrier

Available from several webshops in Europe. I got mine from www.mylittlewonderland.nl

LUSH !!!

BIOTHERM AQUASOURCE AURA CONCENTRATE – REVIEWED

Intense Regeneration Serum

Moisture and Glow

I personally believe the name of a product gives you all of the information you need to know about that product. Or, at least, it SHOULD. This isn’t always true for many cosmetic products where the name still leaves you wondering what for heavens’ sake you would want that product for … (still with me, beauty lovers ?)

Anyway, I like a product to deliver what it promises. That what the whole thing is about. That what my beauty blog is about. Analyse, trying out and make a conclusion. Nothing less, nothing more J

I already reviewed this product quite some time ago. As I’ve been trying it again lately, I thought I’d do a second review on the same product. A bit shorter, more compact J. Hopefully, this will help some of you choosing a serum.

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This serum by Biotherm is bi-phased, meaning no emulsifiers have been used. What you get, is a watery liquid, with the oily phase present at the top half of the product and the watery phase on the bottom half. Shake it, and both phases will be mixed to give you a somewhat “rich”, intensely hydrating and nourishing serum.

Sodium Hyaluronate stands for plenty of moisture in this formula (amongst others) and Squalane (very popular at the moment) is a skin-identical ingredient that will replenish skin beautifully if your skin is dry and in need of some extra help & comfort.

Macadamia Oil is a source of essential fatty acids (also great for healthy, glowing skin) and Nastutium Extract gives you your daily (or nightly) ANTIOXIDANT boost.

There is also some Vitreoscilla Ferment to keep skin flora (good bacteria) in a good mood.

Conclusion :

Does it hydrate well : YES

Does it give you a glow : YES (instantly)

Skin types : rather on the dry side. My combination skin likes it in winter, not in summer (too rich).

Use : AM/PM under a cream or ALONE

Fragrance : yes, citrus-like smell, quite present upon application, fades after a while

www.biotherm.com

 

EXUVIANCE SHEER REFINING FLUID

With Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 35

Powerful antiaging benfits

Formulated to firm, smooth fine lines and even skintone

Controls oiliness

Active Ingredients :

  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) 7.5%
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) 5.0%
  • Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) 3%

“ This light, non greasy pH balanced fluid is the perfect daily base. Formulated with Phytotal*, a botanical blend that helps control oiliness without irritation. Contains our patented Neoglucosamine®, clinically proven to help reduce the appearance of dark spots from age or acne, and improve firmness for a younger looking skin.”

Woow, that’s a LOT isn’t it ? Honestly, one only has to look at the formula, to see that this product has just been BEAUTIFULLY formulated with PLENTY of active ingredients, PLUS, that the active ingredients are TRULY present in high amounts.

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If there’s one thing that I personally often HATE when it comes to cosmetics, is that some companies CLAIM certain active ingredients in their products, but use them in too SMALL QUANTITIES to be effective on our skin. Do you get what I mean ?

The story about the one tenth of an Aspirin. The headache didn’t go. It’s the same thing with cosmetics. Some ingredients REALLY DO make a difference to your skin, and to the AGEING PROCESS of your skin, but you need a certain concentration to make it WORK.

Active ingredients need to be AT THE BEGINNING OF THE INGREDIENTS LIST, and not somewhere at THE END. Because if that’s the case, there might be more added fragrance, preservatives and colours in your product than actually active ingredients. I’m just saying this to make you AWARE of the TRUTH about cosmetics. Claims are many, proven results are few ……

The star ingredient in this formula – apart from the UV Filters mentionned above – is Neoglucosamine, which is an exclusive ingredient to the Neostrata Company, who also happen to produce Exuviance. It’s the SECOND ingredient in the INCI list (ingredients’ list), so that’s very, very , bloody good news actually ! It means that there’s certainly enough of the ingredient present to deliver the promised results !

Bottom Line : LOVE this product, because it’s GREAT

Skin types : all

Age group : all

Texture : creamy, sinks in fast

How to use : mornings only, as it has SPF. Over a serum or on its own. Great for guys, after shaving too !

 

My combination skin loves it, it’s rich enough form y 40+ skin, but still light enough to give me a “clean”, fresh feeling during the summer days. LUSH

www.exuviance.com  

www.exuviance.be

 

SKIN MOMENTS 14 & WHAT THE HELL HAVE I BEEN DOING ?

Well, honestly, a lot, when it comes to work. Plus travelling, to Italy, our beloved place in Umbria, to see our friends, get some olive oil, and do lots of siestas J.

Workwise, my activities for several cosmetic companies (Klapp Cosmetics, Neostrata, Exuviance, Heliocare), have taken a lot of my energy and kept me from writing anything for the blog. Well, anything that I thought would make sense, anyway…

But here’s a little information about how things were for me skincare-wise, as any beauty fanatic will know : we NEVER stop caring for our skins, no matter how tired/busy we are !!

I’ve set off the Retinol for a while. Not that one absolutely has to, during summer, but it just seems one of these things many of us do. As I wrote in my previous blogposts, Retinol has been the NUMBER ONE miracle ingredient for me, especially when it comes to treating (old) acne scars. I’ve benn off the Retinol for at least six weeks (or is it two months ?) now, and I STILL see what it did for me.

In order to keep skin “going”, I’ve substituted the Retinol by some mild PHA and Bionic ACIDS, that are really a MUST TRY if you have SENSITIVE skin and are looking for some active, yet gentle anti-ageing ingredients.

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I truly LOVE my NEOSTRATA Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream (10% PHA – Polyhydroxy Acid) and Bionic Face Cream (12% mix Bionic & Polyhydroxy Acid), which is EVEN MILDER, but does give visible results when it comes to fine lines and pore texture.

Furthermore, I’ve started the EXUVIANCE Brigthening Serum, that I line to alternate with a super hydrating serum by iUnik (Bèta-Glucan Power Moisture Serum). I’ll be writing about all these products in separate posts, because there is so much good information I want to share with you about these products.

I’ve also recently discovered how soothing and hydrating the MIssha Time Revolution Essence can be, especially when skin is a bit “under stress”, and I must say the Korean do a great job when it comes to formulating a good essence. But then, THEY created the “essence”, didn’t they ……..

So, at the moment, this seems to be my ideal summer skin care. Mild, but still active & effective.

ISANA HAND KONZENTRAT

With  Vitamin E & Glycerin

Very dry skin

I’ll keep it short, VERY SHORT.

This one is simple, VERY SIMPLE ; mainly Glycerin and some grease.

Don’t mean this any way negative.

It works. When you’re dersperate. Autumn has come and you get your “winter version” of your hands. Dry, chapped, even the most beautiful creams do not work. Try this one. Get yourself up to a Rossmann store in Germany or get int online. It’s a few bucks. Literally. But worth a million when nothing else does it.

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I mainly use it for the back of my hands. In winter, not in summer. Far to “greasy feeling”. But for now, it helps me prevent and repair a lot of damage. The formula is lackluster, but it this case, that’s just great. Glycerin (super moisture-locking), some fatty acids (palm oil) and a tiny bit of vitamin E.

Stop. That’s it. Save your money for your face. Not that I don’t love luxuxry handcreams ! I do !

www.rossmann.de

 

 

CATTIER PARIS MOUSSANT FAMILIAL

Family Shower Gel & Shampoo

Cornflower

Lactoserum

0% Soap

I haven’t been discussing many body products on this blog since I ever started writing about products. Obviously, the focus is more on facial skincare rather than on body care, but I thought it would be nice – in the future – to discuss some body & hair products too.

Moussant Familial is a nice, gentle and really “all over” body & hair product, that offers a good ALTERNATIVE for those of you who are seeking for an SLS or SLES free body wash. SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) and its somewhat milder “brother” SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ester Sulfate, also know as Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are not favorites amongst many bloggers. Let me try to explain to you why.

In order to make a product FOAMING (not : “cleansing), you need substances that are known as “surfactants”. There are many surfactants on the market, but the most commonly used ones in cosmetics (shampoos, body cleansers and facial foaming cleansers) are called “sulfates”. Most widely used are SLS and SLES. SLES has replaced its more harsh brother SLS since quite a few years now, but it’s still a substance that could EVENTUALLY, cause some irritation or dryness, if you’re senstive to it.

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There is a tendency, amongst bloggers and beauty lovers, to seek for SLS/SLES free products, which I fully understand, but remember that a cosmetic formulation (and its result) depend on more than just ONE ingredient. Meaning : I have also been trying several SLS/SLES free prodcuts for both body and hair and my conclusion is, that some are truly MILDER, while others are actually even HARSHER than the other ones ….

The main problem is, is that a “sulfate” will always remain a “sulfate” and as it foams beautifully (like we like our cleansing showersgels to do), it will always be somewhat drying to your skin….

Anyway, this one is a great, gentle product that uses two mild(er) surfactants : Ammonium Lauroyl Sulfate (still a sulfate !) and Cocamidoprpyl Betaine, often used in “baby” products. There is also extract from Saponaria Officinalis, a naturally “foaming” plant, but it doesn’t replace the sulfate fully.

Its smell is very subtle, rather like a tiny bit of methol (which isn’t present in the product). The only frangrance ingredient present is Citrus Paradisi Oil (Limonene), but this product doesn’t smell of citrus at all.

I’ve been using it on both body & hair (like Cattier tells you to do) and it works well for my skin and hair, although it tends to be (much)  less conditioning than the shampoos I’m mostly using (will put some shampoo reviews on the blog soon).

Conclusion : nice, fresh product. Works well for  the entire family. Doesn’t dry out skin. Almost “fragrance free”.

ABOUT THE SILENCE & HERE WE GO AGAIN …..

Yes dears, I know …. It’s been a long time no see …. Sorry for that, but sometimes life takes you on a tour you didn’t plan.

Summer was a bit rough, lots of emotions and hard facts of life to get through. Don’t want to go into details, but when one of your beloved ones is urged to hospital in a crititcal state, everything else just becomes less important.

But I’m back. Battery filled. Good energy & good vibes J

By the way : CHER was back also ! Did any of you see her in Amsterdam or Sportpaleis Antwerpen ?

She’s AMAZING !! 73 and still rocking and looking better than ever. “Genes & gymnastic” (like she always says) DO pay off, obviously. It gives me hope for the future. Keeping fit is soooo important !

Looking good, too, by the way. So let’s focus on some new brands I’ve been trying out/working for lately. I hope you will like them. Of course, Neostrata and Exuviance are still there. So is the German Klapp Cosmetics. The new ones are French and I LOVE them. You’ll see, I’m sure you like them too !

 

Vive la France, i’d say and enjoy some new articles !

JENTSCHURA MIRAVERA ERFRISCHENDES HAUTWASSER

Refreshing Skin Tonic

Active Ingredients :Hydrogen peroxide, essential oils.

Sometimes there are products you just don’t get. Formula-wise, I mean. Sometimes you’e amazed about how wonderful a product can be, sometimes you’re left speechless and just think : “what the f… were they thinking when making this formula”…..

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This is one of the RARE cases I just cannot find ANYTHING positive about a product. Yes, sure, “refreshing” it is, but at the cost of a lot of oxidation (hydrogenperoxide, potentially damaging your skin cells), PLUS a whole lot of – yes I know, LOVELY – essential oils, which do NOT make things better.

So I’m left speechless, with the only advise there is to give you : skip this one, even if it was a present (mine was), even if it feels sooo refreshing and smells so nice. This is definitely a NONO option for me.

NAZAN DERMACARE VITAMIN C SERUM

With Acerola

“A highly effective concentrate of water-soluble vitamin C, enriched with Acerola. This superfruit is rich in vitamin C and works as an antioxidant. Skin ageing and dehydration are prevented, free radicals are neutralized  and collagen and elastin production are boosted. Skin’s moisture balance is improved and discolorations are visibly reduced”.

For mature skin, wrinkles, age-spots and discolorations, sun damaged skin.

I fully agree.This must be one of the stronger vitamin C products on the market, using Ascorbic Acid in a stabilized, watery solution. Ascorbic Acid is extremely difficult to stabilize in a cosmetic products, reason for which many brands look for other, more stable alternatives like MAP and SAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate). Some skin care experts, however, consider the Ascorbic Acid form to be more effective. I personally don’t really have an opinion on this and believe both options can be great, depending on skin type and problems one has to treat.

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The reason for putting this product in the “stronger section” (meaning it will have a percentage of about 15-20 percent Vitamin C), is that I personally can NOT use it while I’m on Retinol or AHA’s (Fruit Acids). My skin just cannot take all these actives together.

On its own, however, as a course of several weeks, this product is great. Powerful, lightening and giving skin a more even skin tone. I believe someone with serious hyperpigmentation problems/Melasma should absolutely check out this one. Great after acne too (think discolorations).

Texture :watery

Age group :all

Use :after cleansing, just using A FEW drops. Follow with moisturizer/SPF

www.nazandermacare.nl

 

 

NAZAN DERMACARE SKIN BOOST RETINOL SERUM

With vitamines C,E,F.

If you’re looking for a not-too-strong, yet still active form of a Retinol product, with the benefits of some extra ANTIOXIDANTS and want it to be slightly moisturizing too, you should try out this Nazan product.

Netherlands-based Beautician Nazan makes a nice, still small, product line and was so kind to send me this one (along with two others – reviews will follow) for try-out.

I really enjoyed the light, rather watery texture that is absorbed by skin immediately. This Retinol product is very well tolerated by skin, although the dosage, according to Nazan herself, should be around 1 percent, which is quite strong for a Retinol product.

Maybe it’s due to the total formula, or depends on the delivery system of the product, but I have noticed no irritation or any other “symptom” of Retinol abuse Jwhile using it. Of course, I didn’t start using it on a daily basis, but used it alternating with the Nazan Vitamin C serum and the Hyaluronic serum.

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I would say this is a nice product for someone who has used weaker formulas before and wants something effective, but not too strong.For me, it was an ideal “in between”, before moving on to a stronger version, and I will certainly use it again in future, during times I want something that is easily tolerated by my skin.

Texture :water-based, light, immediately absorbed.

Age :any

Skin concerns :skin texture, hyperigmentation/uneven pigmentation, wrinkles, acne

Use :build up use, starting 2/3 nights a week and gradually moving up to 5/7 nights a week.

Combines well with :any other “neutral” moisturizer or “anti-ageing” cream. ALWAYS use an SPF of 30 or higher when doing Retinol !!

www.nazandermacare.nl