Inevitably, we will all come to a point where we, looking in the mirror, shout : “ help, I need to do something “ ! I mean this point where you simply get the impression that your skincare – however good it might be – doesn’t do enough for you anymore. Time for something drastic ? Well, drastic, no, but a bit stronger, that’s for sure ….
Peelings, and I mean PROFESSIONAL peelings, carried out by a DERMATOLOGIST OR a skilled BEAUTICIAN/SKIN THERAPIST can make all that difference for your skin. Renewing, refreshing, making skin able to absorb MOISTURE and NUTRIENTS again. That’s what a good peel can do for you.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF ACIDS
When we speak about serious peeling, we speak about acids. Often, peelings performed by an aesthetician will be based on so called “fruit” acids. The term “Fruit Acids” is used to design a group of specific acids, that not necessarily come from fruit. Some may, but many do not. Depending on your skin type/problem, different fruit acids or combinations can be used.
Glycolic Acid, derived from sugarcane, is very efficient for treating WRINKLES and AGEING SKIN. From all the fruit acids, it has the smallest molecule, which makes it an intensive (deep working) ingredient.
Lactic Acid, from milk, is very good for dryer/sensitive skinas it has a larger molecular size and doesn’t penetrate as deep as the glycolic acid mentionned above. Good for PIGMENTATION (AGE SPOTS) and MELASMA(hyperpigmentation associated with hormonal changes, like during/after pregnancy).
Mandelic Acid, from almonds, is a more gentle, yet also very EFFECTIVE type of acid, that can be used alone or in combination with the previous ones.
Citric Acid, from lemons, is used to re-inforce other acids. It has a BRIGHTENING/LIGHTENING effect when used in conjunction with other acids.
Tartaric Acid, from wine, like citric acid, is used to re-inforce the others.
Pyruvic acid, from grapes, is quite a strong one and often used in “ANTI-AGEING” PEELS.
Salicylic Acid, originally extracted from willow bark, has the ability to penetrate (clogged) pores, which makes it a great choice for skins that need being PURIFIED. Think ACNE/BLACKHEADS. Can make your face go quite red, but don’t worry, you’ll be ok after an hour or so J. As it is chemically apparented to aspirin (acetyl-salicylic acid), people with an aspirin allergy should consult their physician first.
Fruit Acids will help to “slough off” the outer layers of your epidermis. This is the superficial part of the skin. It renews itself every 28 days, but as we age ……… Well you can guess, it goes the wrong way and gets SLOWER and SLOWER. That’s why a good peel can do so much for your skin.
Fruit acid peels are often performed in a course. How many you’ll need, will depend on your skin condition. A course of 4 to 10 peels can give you VERY GOOD RESULTS. Expect more smoothness, refined pores, improvement of acne and improvement/disappearing of hyperpigmented spots. Wrinkles will be diminished, but don’t expect miracles here.
Apart from the fruit acids, there is another acid used by dermatologists, called TCA (Tri Chloric Acetic acid), which will peel DEEPER and more intensely than fruit acids. TCA will peel off kind of the entire epidermis, giving your skin a new lease of life. Results are more DRAMATIC than with fruit acids, but there will be some down-time ; visible peeling during about 5 days. And no, you can’t cover it up with make-up because you’re simply flaking off like some old reptile (but that was the whole purpose).
For WRINKLE treatment, especially fine wrinkles (around the eyes), TCA often gives the best results. I will do a separate blog/vlog on this subject later this year.
AS peelings will inevitably make your skin more sun (light) sensitive, always use a good quality sun block on top of your skin care. Peelings are best performed during our autumn/winter months when the sun has lost its strength.
For more information on Fruit Acid Peels : contact your aesthetician. Several companies offer interresting peels. Klapp Cosmetics is launching a new series of promising new peels this Autumn.
For more information on TCA Peels, contact: Centre Médical Saint Georges, Dr. Françoise Guiot, dermatologist.