Time-released, microencapsulated retinol formula
“This unique nighttime transformer supercharges the proven power of Retinol with our patented Neoglucosamine, amplifying results, while delivering a gradual, time-released infusion of pure Retinol in a microencapsulated form to minimize irritation.”
Beneficial Ingredients :
Retinol, Acetyl Glucosamine: improve cell turnover
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): Anti-Oxidant
Arginine, Bisabolol: soothing
There are three types of retinol products available : the “actual retinol”, the “prescription strength” retinol, also called tretinoin, and the “simple” vitamin A, which is in fact no retinol.
Complicated ? No, not at all ! Here’s how it is :
The “real” Retinol, that you will find in the INCI (Ingredients) list as “retinol”, is a pure, highly active form of vitamin A. In our skin, it has to be converted into “tretinoin” (the acid form) to be absorbed by our skin cells.
Tretinoin, also called “prescription retinol” because you need a prescription from you doctor or dermatologist, is even stronger and has the (only) advantage of being directly available to your skin cells. But it is also VERY irritating, and some skins (like mine) will never get used to this type of product. Ongoing redness, flaking and irritation can be the result and although some people have excellent results, I do not advocate this type of active ingredient.
Vitamin A, in the form of “vitamin A palmitate” or “vitamin A acetate” is often marketed as retinol, but doesn’t have the same effects. It is merely a (good) anti-oxidant, but has no DIRECT anti-ageing benfits. Some brands claim retinol and are in fact using these less interresting forms of vitamin A.
A newer form of retinol, known as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, is said to be just as good as retinol, but does – at this moment – not have the same amount of studies to prove its effect as retinol has. It is, however a very interresting ingredient that I suerly would advise you to look out for.
My PERSONAL favorite is the actual “real” retinol. You need your skin to get used to this also, so you will – depending on your skin’s senstitvity – have to build up your use of the product over time. In order to build up, you will need to start with a less concentrated product and work your way up to a “full strength” one, or start using a “full strength” product once or twice a week and then build up your routine to a daily ( = nightly) use.
As Retinol is sensitive to light, it is best used at night. That’s the general consensus in the skin care world. It is not forbidden to use it at daytime, but full benefits will be obtained using it overnight.
By the way, “full strenght” for retinol means about a 1% concetration, which might seem very low !
The Exuviance product belongs to this category and I gradually built up my skin to a nightly use. Benefits start to show after a few nights of use, full benefits will need several weeks (to months) of ongoing use to show.
Skin type: either oily or ageing, open pores, fine lines, wrinkles, lack of firmness
Use : at night, starting 1 to 2 times a week, building up gradually
Exuviance is available through selected depositories (BE/NL)